I agree with mr herer.
you must learn html coding by hand. It may seem duanting if you have no experience with html but its not hard.
if you use a wysiwyg editor straight off you will find it will take you longer to learn it because you become 'lazy'. also when it comes to cleaning up the code it will be easier to spot code you dont need.
css is the next step.
I am now well into learning dreamweaver mx 2004.
The one thing that i have struggled with is the visual design of sites.
2 great books on the design side are
robin williams web design workshop and
robin williams design workshop.
superb books if you dont have a design background like myself.
im now learning to use php with mysql.
now comes putting it all together.
highbury entertainment publish a great magazine called practical web projects.
which guides you through creating a complete site using dreamweaver,freehand,fireworks,flash,server scripting, databases
when i started learning web design i did a course(ciw certified webmaster)which gave me a qualification. but i felt it was money i should of spent else where.
i dont think employers in the web design industry are interested in qualifications its experience that counts and having a good portfolio of sites is much more important.
Yes there is a vast amount to learn.so get the basics right.