Thanks for the input!
I just realized I used UT orange. Agh. Kill me now. I remember seeing how people would paint their doghouses that color, not my favorite thing. Originally I came up with the white/gray/black/orange colorscheme back in 2002, probably subliminally influenced by an old steakandcheese.com template.
You're right. It needs to be changed to something more eyefriendly, probably with whitespace. I'll have the Athens link turn the entire page background into a random (out of 10 or so) photograph from the region. Part of the dark reason is it let me be lazy with image spacing and alignment. The header does appeal to me... but I could be nuts. Need a focus group..
I'll make a table to contain everything, background it black, and have the rest be white background. A few minutes adjusting my stylesheet and the pages that load inside the iframe will be white backgrounded as well, and this just might work.
Sure is muggy here right now, I'm in the Tennessee Valley. The good part is you don't have to drive very far at all to see some marvelous stuff, and the mountains aren't much farther.