I needed a short (2-day I think) course to kick me off with Dreamweaver. I did not find the GUI intuitive. But I think Dreamweaver is very good for getting you started. These days I mostly work direct in the code window - but it is still very neat having the automatic prompts for coding as you go, the colour checks of php coding are nice, and the immediate validation check is handy too (though not quite as rigorous (with DW MX2004) as w3c).
However, learn early to tidy your code in the code window for best results.
The FTP is very handy too - though you should still have something like Filezilla in your armoury, IMHO.